Your blades are the most performance-critical part of your figure skates — and also the easiest part to accidentally ruin. A single walk across a parking lot without guards can nick an edge. Leaving skates in a bag overnight without drying can start rust you won't notice until your edges feel wrong.
The fix is simple: guards and soakers. Two inexpensive accessories that solve two different problems. But a lot of skaters use them wrong — or only use one — and end up with dull edges, rusty blades, and sharpenings they didn't need.
This guide breaks down exactly what each does, when to use them, and the simple post-skate routine that keeps your blades performing session after session.
What Blade Guards Do (and Don't Do)
Blade guards are hard or semi-rigid covers that snap over your blade to protect the steel edge from physical damage. Their job is simple: stop the blade from touching concrete, gravel, rubber mats, and anything else that can chip or dull your edge when you walk off the ice.
Types of Blade Guards
Hard plastic guards are the most common. They're lightweight, cheap, and work well for short walks between the rink door and the bench. Spring-clip designs fit a range of blade heights; screw-fit versions offer tighter, more consistent alignment.
Walkable guards add rubber or polyurethane tread for traction. They're safer on slippery lobby floors and uneven outdoor surfaces, but the soles wear down faster — especially on rough ground.
✅ How to Fit Hard Guards Properly
Seat the blade fully in the channel, compress the spring or engage the clip, then rock the skate gently side to side. A good fit shouldn't twist, wobble, or let the blade shift. Make sure your toe pick clears the front of the guard. A loose guard is a fall risk.
⚠️ What Guards Don't Do
Guards don't prevent rust. They don't absorb moisture. And they should never be used for long-term storage — hard guards trap water against the blade and create the exact conditions that cause corrosion. Put them on to walk. Take them off when you're done.
What Soakers Do (and Why They Matter More Than You Think)
Soakers are soft, absorbent blade covers — usually made from microfiber, fleece, or terry cloth — that wick residual moisture away from the steel after skating. They're your blade's defense against rust and oxidation during storage.
Even after you towel-dry your blades, there's still moisture in crevices around the blade holder and along the edge. A soaker pulls that moisture away over time, keeping the steel dry and preventing the microscopic corrosion that dulls edges between sharpenings.
Soaker Materials Compared
| Material | Wicking Speed | Dry Time | Durability | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Microfiber | Fast | Quick | High — machine washable | Frequent skaters, daily practice |
| Fleece | Moderate | Medium | Good — some lint shedding | All-around use, cushioned protection |
| Terry Cloth | High absorption | Slow | Lower — replace more often | Occasional skaters, budget option |
For most adult skaters, microfiber soakers are the best all-around choice — they wick fast, dry fast, handle machine washing, and last the longest. Fleece is a solid second option if you want a bit more cushion.
Guards vs. Soakers: Side-by-Side Comparison
These two accessories solve completely different problems. Here's the breakdown:
Blade Guards
- Prevents nicks and edge damage
- Used for walking off-ice
- Hard plastic or rubber
- Lasts months to years
- Remove before storage
Soakers
- Prevents rust and corrosion
- Used for storage after skating
- Microfiber, fleece, or terry
- Wash monthly, replace as needed
- Keep on during storage
The key takeaway: guards and soakers aren't interchangeable. Guards don't absorb moisture (and actually trap it). Soakers don't protect against concrete. You need both, used at the right times.
The Post-Skate Routine That Protects Your Blades
This is the single most important habit in blade care. It takes about two minutes and prevents the majority of edge and corrosion problems adult skaters run into.
⛸️ Quick Version for Busy Skaters
At minimum: towel-dry → soaker → bag. Even skipping the air-dry step is fine if your soaker is clean and dry. The worst thing you can do is throw wet skates into a bag with hard guards on. That's a rust recipe.
Routines for Different Types of Skaters
Your blade care routine should match how you skate. Here's what works for different lifestyles:
| Skater Type | Guard Setup | Soaker Setup | Extra Steps |
|---|---|---|---|
| Casual (1–2x/week) | Basic hard guards | Fleece or microfiber | Dry-and-soak routine after each session |
| Commuter | Walkable guards with tread | Fast-dry microfiber | Spare towel in bag, replace guards when tread wears |
| Lesson-Taker | Hard guards for rink walks | Microfiber | Quick 3-step routine: dry, soak, transit guard |
| Competitive | Fitted guards (spring or screw) | Premium microfiber | Daily inspections, sharpening log, edge checks under light |
Choosing the Right Guards and Soakers
What to Look for in Blade Guards
- Fit: Match your blade profile — check holder shape and toe-pick clearance
- Tread: Walkable soles if you'll cross slippery or uneven surfaces
- Clip type: Spring clips for flexibility across blade heights; screw-fit for tighter hold
- Durability: Replace when the sole is visibly worn or the fit loosens
What to Look for in Soakers
- Material: Microfiber for speed and durability; fleece for cushion
- Fit: Should cover the entire blade edge snugly — no gaps
- Washability: Machine-washable fabrics save time and last longer
- Replacement cycle: Wash monthly; replace when absorption drops or fabric thins
🛒 Adults Skate Too Collections
Our Guards collection and Soakers collection are curated for adult skaters — check material, fit adjustability, and cleaning instructions to match your routine.
Advanced Blade Care: Drying, Sharpening, and Storage
Beyond the basic guard-and-soaker routine, consistent drying, smart sharpening, and proper storage are what separate blades that last from blades that don't.
Maintenance Schedule
| Task | Frequency | What to Do |
|---|---|---|
| Towel-dry blades | Every session | Microfiber towel on blade, edge, and holder area |
| Wash soakers | Monthly | Machine wash; replace if saturated or damaged |
| Inspect guards | Weekly | Check for cracked soles, loose fit, worn tread |
| Check for rust | Weekly | Look for discoloration along the edge and flat |
| Sharpen blades | As needed | When edges feel dull, you slip in turns, or spins lose centering |
How to Know When You Need Sharpening
Your blades are telling you they need sharpening when edges slip during turns or crossovers, jumps feel less stable on takeoff, spins lose centering, or you hear scraping sounds that weren't there before. Recreational skaters typically sharpen a few times per season; competitive skaters sharpen more frequently. Find a sharpener you trust and stick with them — consistency in hollow depth matters more than frequency.
Storage Best Practices
- Always store with soakers on — never with hard guards
- Use a breathable bag — mesh or ventilated tote, not sealed plastic
- Choose a cool, dry location — not a humid basement, garage, or car trunk
- Stand skates upright — allows any remaining moisture to drain
- Open boot liners when possible to air out the inside
Common Blade Care Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)
🚫 Mistake #1: Storing Skates in Hard Guards
This is the most common blade care mistake. Hard guards trap moisture against the blade and create ideal conditions for rust. Guards are for walking — soakers are for storage. Always switch.
🚫 Mistake #2: Skipping the Towel-Dry
Putting a soaker on a wet blade just traps a pool of water against the steel. Towel-dry first, then soaker. The soaker handles residual moisture — not standing water.
🚫 Mistake #3: Using One Pair of Soakers Until They Fall Apart
Soakers lose absorbency over time. Wash them monthly and replace them when they feel thin, stiff, or stop pulling moisture. A worn-out soaker isn't protecting anything.
🚫 Mistake #4: DIY Rust Removal with Aggressive Scrubbing
If rust appears, use a rust eraser or very fine steel wool gently. Aggressive scrubbing removes metal and changes edge geometry. For heavy rust, take blades to a professional sharpener — prevention is far cheaper than restoration.
Frequently Asked Questions
Your blades do the hard work. Give them two minutes of care and they'll return the favor. 🔪⛸️
